Let’s talk about different categories under Men’s apparel and then sub-categorising the fabric used accordingly. These are the kinds of fabrics commonly used to make the different clothes which contribute in making the apparel range for men.
● Shirting: Linen, Big Checks, Chambery, Dobby, Oxford, Printed, Satin, Slub, Twill.
● T-shirts: Rib, French Terry, Heavy Fleece, Jacquard, Jersey.
● Polo: Pique, Honeycomb, Horizontal, Stripe.
● Pants: Heavy Twill, Yarn dyed, Small checks, slub chambray, poly checks, herringbone.
● Suiting: 40’s Linen, Oxford, Dobby, Solid Dyed, Twill, Yarn Dyed.
● Indian traditional wear: Linen, Whites, chambray, filafil.
Different weaves make different fabrics, the most common weaves in men’s apparels or say fabrics are the following:
Poplin is also called broadcloth, it is a plain weave signifying the threads alternately cross over and then under each other, which results in a very smooth and durable fabric that has a silky hand feel, particularly when with a higher thread count. For a sharper look, poplins look very crisp when ironed.
Twill fabrics are known to have a weft thread that runs over and under multiple warp threads as opposed to a simple plain weave where the weft only crosses a single warp thread at a time. This creates interesting patterns like a herringbone, houndstooth or a simple, diagonal rib. Twills are known to be very durable fabrics that have a softer hand feel than poplins and are a bit more sheen.
The traditional oxford is known as a type of basket weave in which multiple weft threads cross over an equal number of warp threads. The threads are usually of a single color crossed with a white to give oxford its unique and exclusive checkerboard appearance. It a versatile fabric which can be worn casually and professionally depending on the thread count and finish.
The dobby weave is commonly known as a weave because dobby weaves have a unique geometric pattern in the fabric, which is accomplished by using a special loom that raises and lowers the warp threads one at a time individually, allowing the weaver to create the geometrically distinct pattern. Dobby fabrics can come in all kinds of patterns, colors, weights and hand feels.
Herringbone weaves are mostly found in wool fabrics and suiting, they are often found in dress shirting as well. Herringbone weave is a type of twill which has a distinctive ‘V’ shaped pattern, named after the herring fish. The weave tends to be slightly heavier in weight, and are more often found in seasonal shirting fabrics for cold weather.